The Complete Guide to Money in Your 20s

Welcome to our new series on spending money in your 20s.  At SeedSafe, we work with. our clients and their families as their thought  partner in finances. This is our ‘Happy Graduation’ series to support families in bringing their kiddos into a deeper understanding of finance for their 20s.

How to Decipher your Paycheck

Our first section dives into the world of paychecks and what it all means.

At SeedSafe, our clients’ children are enjoying new adventures – finding out where they are going to college, doing internships, and receiving offer letters for after college.  Our goal in this series is to clarify the jumble and offer best practices in taking those first steps into independence…let’s go!  

You worked hard, the direct deposit hit, and… wait. That’s it?

If you just entered your “adulting” phase, looking at your first paystub can be confusing. You negotiated for one number, but the number hitting your bank account feels a bit underwhelming.

Understanding your paystub is the first step to managing your money with confidence. Let’s break down the “why” and “where” of your missing cash.

Gross vs. Net Paycheck

• Gross: Total earnings before anything is taken out
• Net: Your actual “take-home” pay

Hidden Compensation

Look for a section often labeled Employer Contributions.This is where your company lists what they pay for your health insurance premiums, life insurance, and employer 401(k) matching contributions. This is part of your total compensation. Even though this money doesn’t hit your checking account, it is a huge part of your financial foundation. It’s a great reminder of the true value you’re receiving beyond your salary. When you factor in these “hidden” dollars, you often find that your employer is covering thousands of dollars in costs you would otherwise have to pay out of pocket. It helps to fund your health and your future retirement. Remember that retirement accounts involve investment risk, and your account balance will fluctuate based on market conditions.

Paycheck Taxes: Where Does it Actually Go?

Withholding taxes on your paycheck are typically split into four main buckets:

• Federal Income Tax: This funds everything from national parks to the military. The more you make, the bigger the percentage they take.
• State Income Tax: (Unless you live in a tax-free state like Washington, Texas, Florida, etc.) This covers your local roads, schools, emergency services, etc.
• Social Security: Think of this as a mandatory contribution to a giant national pension. You’re paying for current retirees now, and someday, younger workers will (hopefully) pay for you.
• Medicare: This funds healthcare for seniors (65+) and the disabled.

Commissions and RSUs

If you’re in sales or tech, you might see a “Commission” check or “Restricted Stock Units” (RSUs) vest. While it feels great to earn those extra dollars, these are often taxed at a flat “supplemental” rate (usually 22% for federal tax withholding).

If you’re a high earner, 22% might not be enough. Because everyone’s tax bracket is different, that 22% flat rate might not cover your full bill. It’s worth a quick check-in now so you aren’t surprised by a ‘To-Do’ list from the IRS in April. If you see a big RSU vest, check in with your paystub to see if they withheld enough.

Lowering Your Taxes

• Pre-Tax Deductions: These come out before the government takes their cut. Why is this good? Because it lowers your taxable income. If you earn $5,000 this month but put $1,000 into your 401(k), your end of year tax form will show earned income of $4,000. You’re essentially lowering your taxable income today while building your future self’s nest egg. Just keep in mind that since this is for retirement, Uncle Sam usually wants that money to stay put until you’re at least 59 ½.
• Post-Tax Deductions: These come out after your taxes are calculated. This includes things like Roth 401(k) contributions, legal benefits, or additional life Insurance. You don’t get a tax break today, but for retirement accounts, generally speaking you won’t pay taxes on that money (or the growth!) when you use it later (provided certain requirements are met, such as the 5-year holding period). Keep in mind that while the tax benefits are clear, the underlying investments are not guaranteed and can lose value.

The IRS Form W-4

When you start(ed) your new job, you fill out a W-4. This form tells your employer how much tax to take out.

• Too little withholding? You get a bigger paycheck now, but a scary bill in April.
• Too much withholding? You get a smaller paycheck, but a big “refund” (which is really just an interest-free loan you gave the government).
• If you start to notice you are receiving a large refund or a large tax bill, you can adjust your W-4 to try to correct this. For example, some married couples select “Single” on their W-4 to withhold more taxes.

How to fill it out: If you’re single with one job and no kids, it’s straightforward. But if you have a side hustle or big investments, use the IRS Withholding Estimator to make sure you’re hitting the “Goldilocks” zone—not too much, not too little.

Final Thought: Check the Math

Your payroll department is human. Mistakes happen! Every few months, take 5 minutes to look at your paystub. Does the 401(k) contribution match what you signed up for? Are you maxing it out with the new year’s contribution limits? Are they taxing you in the right state?
If your paystub still feels like a puzzle, let’s chat. Schedule a free consultation to see if your benefits are working as hard as you are.

Company Benefits 101: Navigating Your First Adult Job Offer

Our second article in this series is focused on company benefits in your first job offer.  What do all the ‘things’ even mean??

Congratulations on the new job! Nothing says “welcome to the company!” like a 40-page benefits guide that feels like it’s written in a different language.

While it may be tempting to skim your benefits, pick the cheapest option and move on, your benefits package is actually a massive part of your total compensation. Choosing correctly now sets up “Future You” for success.

Let’s break down the essentials so you can choose with confidence.

Understanding the Company Benefits Lingo

Before you pick a plan, you have to know how the math works. Health insurance is a trade-off between what you pay every month and what you pay when you actually get sick.

• Premiums: The “subscription fee” for your insurance. This is taken out of your paycheck every month regardless of whether you see a doctor or not.
• Deductible: The amount you pay out-of-pocket for care before the insurance company starts chipping in.
  • Note: most plans cover “Preventative Care” (like an annual physical) at 100% from day one, meaning you pay $0. For everything else, sick visits, X-rays, or prescriptions, you are the primary payer until this is met.
• Out-of-Pocket Max: The “Safety Net.” This is the absolute maximum you will have to pay in a year. Once you hit this, the insurance company covers 100% of your remaining qualified medical costs.
  • Example: If you have a $5,000 out-of-pocket max and a hospital bill for a necessary surgery comes back at $30,000, your spending is capped at that $5,000. Once you hit that ceiling, the insurance company covers the remaining $25,000 in full so you don’t have to.

HDHP vs. PPO: Which one is best for you?

Most companies offer two main choices.

• PPO (Preferred Provider Organization): Higher premiums, but lower deductibles. You pay more upfront to have more predictable costs when you visit the doctor.
• HDHP (High Deductible Health Plan): Lower premiums, but you pay the full cost of care until you hit a higher deductible.
  • The Game Changer: A HDHP plan allows you to open an HSA (Health Savings Account). For those who are young and healthy, the HDHP + HSA combo can be a powerful long-term strategy, though the right choice always depends on your unique medical needs and budget.

Read our deeper dive here.

Should I Stay On My Parent’s Health Plan?

Maybe! (Isn’t that always the answer?) Federal law lets you stay on a parent’s health insurance until age 26, even if you’re married or living in a different state. If your parents are willing to cover the cost, it’s a huge gift. However, here are 4 considerations before you decline your own employer’s offer:

1. Location: If you moved to a new city for work, your parent’s insurance might not have a local network. Going “out-of-network” for anything other than an emergency can turn a simple $100 doctor visit into a costly bill.
2. Privacy: As the “Policyholders,” your parents usually receive the Explanation of Benefits (EOB), which shows which doctor you saw and what it cost. If you want 100% medical privacy for things like mental health or reproductive care, you need your own plan.
3. Children: If you plan on starting a family before age 26, remember that the “stay until 26” rule does not extend to your children.
4. Full Coverage: Although it’s not common, if your company offers a $0 premium plan and gives you a $500/year+ contribution to an HSA, you may be leaving free money on the table by staying on your parents plan.

The “Must-Have” Employer Benefits

Beyond health insurance, look for these “free money” opportunities:

• 401(k) Match: If your employer matches your contributions, now is the time to contribute at least up to the match percentage. If you don’t contribute enough to get the full match, you’re essentially leaving part of your compensation package on the table. It’s one of the few times your employer will literally give you extra funds for your future.
  • For example, if your company offers a 100% match on contributions up to 6% of your pay and you earn $80,000, that’s $4,800 contributed by you and another $4,800 from your employer going into your retirement account.
• HSA vs. FSA: You generally can’t contribute to both at the same time.
  • HSA: This is famously known as a “triple threat” because your money is tax-deductible going in, grows tax-free, and is tax-free coming out as long as it’s used for qualified medical expenses. Consider maxing this out and investing the funds for the long-term, keeping in mind that these investments can fluctuate in value.
  • FSA: Think of this as a “short-term medical spending account.” You get the same tax-free benefits on your contributions, but it’s owned by your employer and is “use it or lose it”. Typically, we recommend you only contribute what you know you’ll spend in a year (like on new glasses, therapy, or prescriptions), as any leftover funds usually vanish on December 31st.
  • Limited Purpose FSA: This is an exception to the “can’t have both” rule. If you have an HSA, you can also have this account, but it can only be used for dental and vision expenses (like braces, contacts, or LASIK). Like a regular FSA, this is usually “use it or lose it,” so only fund it if you have a specific dental or vision cost planned for the year.
• Disability Insurance: Most people insure their phones and their cars, but they forget to insure their ability to earn an income, which is also protecting your independence. Short-Term (STD) covers you for a few weeks or months (think recovering from a surgery). Long-Term (LTD) covers you after being out for 6+ months and can pay you until you reach retirement age. LTD is the priority if you’re choosing one.
• Legal Benefits: Many employers offer a legal plan for a few dollars a month. You may want to use it to set up a basic will and Power of Attorney (POA). It’s designed to help ensure your wishes are followed, though you should consult a legal professional for your specific situation.

Final Thought: Don’t Set it and Forget it

Benefits aren’t a “one-and-done” decision. Your life—and the tax laws—will change, so treat open enrollment as a yearly check-in with your goals. If you’re curious about how to optimize your choices, check out our other blog on benefits enrollment.

The 4 Compensation Levers You Should Negotiate in Every Job Offer

It’s easy to feel like you should just be ‘grateful’ for an offer, but it is important to review the 4 levers in your offer letter. The numbers you agree to today aren’t just for this year; they are the foundation of your financial future.  Because raises are often calculated as a percentage of your salary, a higher starting point today can have a significant compounding effect (potentially hundreds of thousands of dollars!) on your total lifetime earnings. 

Failing to advocate for yourself now doesn’t just cost you a few thousand dollars today, it anchors your entire career to a lower baseline. Here is how to approach your first offer with a ‘long-game’ mindset and secure the compensation you are worth.

1. The Four Levers: What Are You Actually Negotiating?

As we’ve discussed in our Guide to Negotiating a Better Offer, a compensation package is like a soundboard with different “levers” you can push and pull:

• Base Salary: The most important lever because it’s guaranteed cash and the basis for future raises. 
• Sign-on Bonus: A one-time “win.” This is great for moving costs or an emergency fund.
• Performance Bonus: Unlike your base salary, this is not guaranteed. Even if you hit all your personal goals, if the company misses its revenue targets, your bonus could be significantly reduced. Think of it as a ‘best-case scenario’ number.
• Stock Compensation: The “high-growth” lever. What is your risk tolerance and are you okay with the unknown stock value over the next few years? Where do you see the company going? Is their stock currently at an all-time high? Do you believe in the company’s strategy longer term?

2. Should I Look for a Job with Stock Comp?

If you are joining a tech company or a startup, your offer likely includes RSUs (Restricted Stock Units) or Stock Options.

• RSUs: Think of these as a “future bonus” paid in company shares. You are promised a certain number of shares, but they don’t actually belong to you yet. You have to “earn” them by staying at the company for a set amount of time (the vesting period).
• Stock Options: This is the right to buy shares at a set price. If the company value goes up, you can buy the shares at the old, lower price and pocket the difference as profit.  These also vest over time.

While stock compensation offers high growth potential, it also carries significant risk; if the company’s value declines, your shares could be worth substantially less, or even nothing, when they finally vest. 

3. How to Negotiate 

The biggest secret in hiring? In many industries, it is common for employers to leave some room for negotiation in their initial offer. 

1. Do the Research: Use sites like Glassdoor or Levels.fyi to find the “salary band” for your role. Does the compensation look right for the company size, location, and your position? 
2. Ask for “Wiggle Room”: You don’t need to be aggressive. A simple, “I’m so excited about this role. Based on the market data for similar positions in this city, is there any wiggle room on the base salary to get closer to $X?” is often all it takes.
3. Trade the Levers: If they say “no” to the salary, pull a different lever. Ask for a larger sign-on bonus or more RSUs. Companies often have more flexibility with one-time costs (bonuses) than permanent ones (salary).

Final Thoughts

Your first job isn’t just about the money; it’s about the skills you’ll learn and the people you’ll meet. If an offer is slightly lower but the mentorship is world-class or leadership prioritizes flexibility, that might be the better investment for your 30-year-old self.

If you’re looking for more guidance, check out our blog on how to negotiate your next compensation package.

3 Budgeting Methods That Actually Work (Without Tracking Every Dollar)

Now that money is hitting your account, the goal isn’t to see how little you can spend, it’s to ensure your money is actually going toward the things YOU value.

Most people hate budgeting because it feels like a math test that never ends and that you’re constantly failing.Traditional budgeting usually involves a giant spreadsheet where you have to manually log every cup of coffee or $12 lunch. It’s tedious and it’s why most people quit after a few weeks. But effective budgeting starts with intentionality and can be automated. 

Start with the Math

Before you get started, you need to know your numbers. We’ve created a shared SeedSafe Cash Flow Worksheet to help you estimate your spending and see where your money is actually going.  If you want to use it, please make a copy and add it to your personal Google Drive.

Some helpful rules of thumb:

• The 30% Housing Benchmark: A common starting point is to aim for housing costs at or below 30% of your gross income. While high-cost cities (looking at you, NYC and SF) might push this limit, keeping your fixed housing costs low allows you to have more flexibility in other areas. 
• The 50/30/20 Benchmark: This is a common starting point – 50% of your take-home pay toward Needs (fixed costs), 30% toward Wants (lifestyle), and 20% toward Savings and Debt Repayment.
• The 1x Transportation Benchmark: Ideally, your total transportation costs (car payment, insurance, gas, public transit) should stay under 10% – 15% of your take-home pay.

Consider Your Values

While these rules of thumb are helpful benchmarks, they aren’t laws. As we discuss in 3 Steps for Long-Term Budgeting Success, your budget should reflect your personality. Financial planning is personal. If you value living in a walkable neighborhood and are willing to skip having a car to afford a more expensive apartment, that is a value-based decision.

You might decide to spend 40% on housing because it cuts your commute and improves your mental health,and  then compensate by spending only 10% on “wants.” The goal of budgeting is to help you spend extravagantly on the things you love and cut costs on the things you don’t.

Now that you have a baseline of your numbers, let’s look at 3 different budgeting frameworks to find the system that actually fits you..

Option #1: Reverse Budgeting (Saving First)

A simple way to budget is to Reverse Budget. Instead of spending money and saving what’s left, you decide how much you want to save first and spend what’s left.

• Setup: After reviewing your numbers, set up automatic transfers to your savings or investment accounts for 2-3 days after you get paid. Also set-up auto-pay for your necessities within these first few days of being paid. Automating these steps is designed to help reduce the friction of decision-making, though it requires ongoing monitoring to ensure your cash flow remains positive.
• Considerations:This method is usually a strong option for anyone with a predictable salary who wants to prioritize wealth building without tracking every single purchase. Just be careful about overdraft issues with the timing of your income and expenses.   

Option #2: Flow-Based Budgeting 

Flow-Based Budgeting, a system popularized by Monarch Money and Natalie Taylor, focuses on the flow of money for flexibility rather than allocation of each dollar to specific categories. Instead of one giant pool of money, you divide your budget into three distinct bank accounts:

Fixed Account: This is for all your predictable, consistent expenses/transfers that are about the same each month (rent/mortgage, IRA contributions, car payment, phone bill, charity, subscriptions, other debt payments, savings contributions, etc.).

• Setup: 100% of your paycheck lands here. Everything in this account is Auto-Pay or Auto-Transfer. 
• What stays here: Only the money needed for your fixed transfers. You will also set up an auto-transfer to your Flex Account every Saturday (explained below).
• The Rule: This account is passive. It runs on its own carousel, maintains itself, and is rarely adjusted or monitored. 

Flex Account: This is your “allowance” for variable costs each month. (gas, entertainment, groceries, dining out, shopping, Amazon, hobbies, etc.)

• Setup: 
  • Calculate your weekly target for variable expenses 
    • (Income – fixed expenses = variable expenses / 52 weeks)
  • Create an automatic recurring transfer from your Fixed Account to this account every Saturday. Start your week on a Saturday morning because the weekend is typically the highest spending.
• The Rule: This account is monitored and you only carry the card associated with this account. When the money is gone, you stop spending until the next weekly allowance deposit. If you overspend 1 week, simply under-spend the next to correct your cash flow. 

• Alternate Option: Rather than having a different account, you can use a credit card and target a specific weekly spending amount starting on Saturday morning that is paid off the following Friday evening. This would mean monitoring the credit card each week rather than your flex account. 

Non-Monthly Account: This is for infrequent expenses that don’t happen every 30 days (car registrations, birthday gifts, car repairs, holiday gifts, holiday travel, vacation) 

• Setup: You calculate the yearly cost of these items, divide by 12, and set up an automatic transfer from your Fixed Account to this one every month. On top of those monthly transfers into the account, jump start with a permanent “floor”, maybe $1,000 – $2,000, that stays in the account forever. You never count this money toward those costs. It’s there so that if two large bills hit at once, you never actually bottom out.
• The Rule: When it’s time to buy a $600 plane ticket, you don’t panic or put it on a credit card. You simply transfer the money from this account back to your “Fixed” account to pay the bill. The money is already there, waiting for you.
• Monitoring: Realistically, this account can become too high or too low if it isn’t monitored. Be prepared to increase or decrease your monthly transfers as needed to keep this account at a healthy level. If you find your balance is constantly dropping toward your floor, it’s probably time to increase the amount that you keep in this account. Alternatively, if the balance is far beyond what you need, you can redirect that extra cash to other goals. 

*paste photo* – Check out our SeedSafe Flow-Based Graphic to see exactly how these accounts interact.

Option #3: Traditional Budgeting

If you prefer having detailed data on your spending, here are some of our (and our clients’) favorite tools:

• Monarch Money: Great for a high-level view of all your accounts in one place. It’s highly customizable and excellent for tracking your net worth alongside your spending.
  • Cost: ~$14.99/month or $99/year.
• YNAB (You Need A Budget): The gold standard for zero-based budgeting. YNAB forces you to give every single dollar a “job”.

• Cost: ~$14.99/month or $99/year (often offers a free year for students!)

• Lunch Money: A simple, web-first tool designed for the spender who wants a clean interface without the ads. It’s highly customizable and the company values community over profit.
  • Cost: ~$10/month (offers a $60 minimum “pay what you want” annual tier).

• Good Ol’ Excel or Google Sheets: For those who want total control without sharing their banking data with a third party. You can build a system that is 100% tailored to you
  • Cost: FREE

Read more on How to easily create a budget or check out 3 Steps for Long-Term Budgeting Success

*Disclaimer: SeedSafe Financial, LLC is not affiliated with, nor do we receive compensation from, the third-party tools mentioned in this post. These are shared for illustrative purposes based on their popularity with clients.

Believe it or not, tracking your spending and creating a budget frees you to spend in the areas you care about and to set a standard that you can maintain for the long term. This can be extremely helpful when preparing for early financial independence in your 50s.

Smart Strategies to Save Money for What Matters

Do you currently just save “because you’re supposed to”? The goal is to move toward saving so you can say “yes” to the things that actually matter to you… whether that’s a spontaneous trip to Japan, finally moving into an apartment without roommates, or having the power to walk away from a job that’s no longer a fit.

Paying Your Future Self First

As we shared with Reverse Budgeting, many find that a helpful strategy to reach a goal is often to save first rather than waiting to see what is left at the end of the month. When you treat your savings like a non-negotiable bill, your lifestyle typically adjusts to the remaining balance. If you wait until the 30th of the month, the leftover money has a habit of going towards future regret purchases.

Calculating Your Emergency Fund

An emergency fund is typically the first financial priority. Its goal is to provide a cushion so that unexpected events, like a job loss or a surprise medical bill, do not derail your financial progress or lead to high interest loans or credit card debt. 

A typical starting point that many experts recommend is aiming for 3 – 6 months of essential living expenses. To calculate, look at your spending, select the must-have items, and multiply that monthly total by 3 and 6. This gives you a typical range to shoot for. 

If your income is highly variable (like commission-based sales) or you work in a volatile industry, you might lean toward the 6-month side or even 9 – 12 months. If you have high job security and low fixed costs, 3 months may be a sufficient starting point.

Remember that something is better than nothing. If the 6 month number seems overwhelming, start with a small goal of $1,000 – $2,000 to cover common emergencies like a flat tire or a surprise vet bill while you slowly build toward your larger target over time. 

Where to Keep the Cash

For goals you plan to reach in the next 1-5 years, the focus is typically liquidity and safety. Liquidity is how fast you can turn an asset into “spendable” cash (homes are not very liquid) while safety considers volatility and protecting your original investment amount. 

Traditional big-name banks often pay near 0% interest. A high-yield savings account (HYSA) is a bank that typically pays significantly more, helping your money maintain its purchasing power. Though keep in mind that these rates are variable and can change over time.Be sure it is FDIC-insured because this means $250,000 (per person, per bank, for each account ownership category) is backed by the government.

• The Strategy: Use “buckets” or separate accounts within your HYSA for different goals (e.g., “Emergency Fund,” “Wedding” “House Downpayment”).

Accomplishing Other Large Savings Goals

$20,000 for a car or $50,000 for a down payment can feel impossible at first.The strategy is to break those big goals into smaller, more manageable steps.

• The Sinking Fund Method: Take your total goal, divide it by the number of months until you need it, and add that to your “Non-Monthly Account” transfer. Automating the transfers removes the decision-making and ensures consistent progress towards your goals, regardless of how you’re feeling. 
• One way to leapfrog your progress is to strategically use windfalls. As we discuss in How to Change Your Life with a Bonus, using a one-time performance or sign-on bonus to fully fund a goal could potentially save you months, or even years, of incremental saving.

Start Today

Start with a consistent weekly habit of saving, no matter how small the amount is.  Small, consistent savings habits can build meaningful financial flexibility over time.

How to Stop Overspending: Understanding Your Money Triggers

We can’t talk about money without talking about the messy, beautiful, and often irrational reality of being human. We can have all the knowledge in the world and still find ourselves clicking “complete purchase” on an expensive jacket we didn’t necessarily need. That’s because money decisions typically aren’t purely logical. Our brains seek immediate gratification and emotional relief, while also tracking where we stand relative to other people. When friends share a new purchase or vacation photos, it can trigger comparison and create the feeling that we’re behind. That sense of FOMO can show up even when nothing about our actual financial situation has changed.

If personal finance were just about math, many more of us would be millionaires. But in reality, your “Logical Self” (who wants to save for a house) is constantly at war with your “Stressed Self” (who just wants a hit of joy). This is why budgeting and overspending aren’t simply discipline problems, it’s also an emotional and psychological problem. The goal is to move from shaming our habits to understanding the drivers behind them.

Common Spending Triggers

One of the most common hurdles to staying on track is mental accounting. This is the tendency to treat money differently based on where it came from. We’re often more willing to spend a tax refund or a birthday check than we are with our hard-earned salary, even though every dollar has the same value. 

There’s also the stress spend loop. You come home after a long workday and a passive-aggressive email from your manager. You check your bank account and think, “I worked hard for this money. I deserve to enjoy it.” At that moment, shopping isn’t really about the item itself, it’s about the dopamine hit.

Experiences > Material Things

If spending is emotional, the goal is to spend in a way that better supports long-term happiness. Research suggests that experiences often bring more happiness and satisfaction than material purchases. Put simply, we get used to new things very quickly. While that new phone or pair of shoes might provide a thrill on day one, that feeling often fades as the purchase becomes part of everyday life. Experiences, on the other hand, often gain value over time, especially because of the memories attached to them.  

One of the unique benefits of choosing experiences is anticipation. Planning a trip or looking forward to a dinner often creates happiness before the event even happens AND long after it ends, you’re still left with the story. Those memories tend to stick in a way physical items rarely do. Experiences are also harder to compare. It’s easy to measure your phone or car against someone else’s, but a shared memory doesn’t lose value because someone took a different trip. By investing in experiences, you step off the cycle of constant comparison and putting your money toward things that tend to deliver lasting fulfillment.

So what can you do today?

Reflect on Your Money Habits

Self-awareness is one of the best budgeting tools you have, so for now the goal is simply to notice. Take a moment to reflect on these questions:

• What are the top 3 values (freedom, adventure, health, etc.) I want my financial decisions to reflect?
• What purchases from the last month felt fully worth it? Which did I regret, and what was I feeling in the moment when I spent the money?
• When I feel overwhelmed, do I have a pattern of finding relief through spending? What are a few other ways I could respond in those moments?
• What messages did I hear growing up about spending, saving, or debt? How might those stories still influence me today?
• How do social media and the people I spend time with impact how I see my own progress and my spending habits?

Accountability

Since our brains are great at justifying impulsive buys, having an outside perspective can be incredibly helpful. We are often far more likely to follow through on a promise made to someone else than a promise made internally to ourselves.

Social accountability can be the starting point if your friends are working toward goals of their own. Consider a no-spend week or a savings challenge together. When financial discipline becomes a shared effort, even a little competition can shift the same social instincts that often drive overspending into something that works in your favor. 

If a more structured form of accountability would be helpful, a tool like MyBudgetCoach could be a good option. If you feel your money stories are taking over your ability to move forward, it may be time to reach out to a Certified Financial Therapist (CFT-I™). Working with a real person creates a natural pause before decisions are made.They can help you notice patterns, identify triggers, and work through the behavioral habits you’re trying to change. 

Closing Thoughts

Ultimately, the goal isn’t to live a life of total restriction. It’s to reach a point where you can look back at your spending and feel genuinely proud of where your money went. Remember, if your relationship with money feels especially heavy or painful, consider working with a Certified Financial Therapist™. They focus on the beliefs and emotional experiences behind money habits, bridging the gap between your finances and your overall well-being.

What is one small money habit you could start this week that feels realistic? And who could help hold you accountable?

How to Choose a Bank and Build Credit After College

Let’s be real, most of us picked a bank for one of two reasons: it was the one our parents used or the one with the most ATMs on campus. However, as you enter this new phase of life, your choice will matter much more. Your bank accounts and credit habits can shape your cash flow, your borrowing power, and your overall financial flexibility.

Bank or Credit Union?

When you are looking for where to open your accounts, you typically have two main options. A bank is a for-profit institution, which usually means they have high-end tech, easy ATM access, and a massive network of branches. A credit union is a non-profit co-op. Because credit unions aren’t trying to maximize profits for shareholders, they typically offer lower fees, better interest rates on loans, and are more community focused. The trade-off is that their mobile apps might be a bit dated compared to the larger national banks. The goal is to choose the one that matches your lifestyle. If you want an updated app and nationwide access, a bank might be the move. If you want lower fees and a more personal feel, a credit union may be the better alternative. Some households choose to maintain both. 

How Many Accounts Do You Actually Need?

To be most concise, use at least 1 checking account for your primary spending (rent/mortgage, utilities, groceries, dining out) and two savings accounts. The first savings account would be a “Revolving” Savings. This is a great place to set aside money for recurring but infrequent costs, like pet care, car maintenance, annual subscriptions, or holiday gifts. You move money in and out throughout the year as those expenses pop up so these costs don’t take away from your savings goals in your high-yield account. The other savings account, a High-Yield Savings Account (HYSA), is a powerful tool for your non-monthly goals. Because these accounts typically pay significantly more interest than a traditional bank savings account, they are commonly used to hold money for specific purposes. You can even open multiple sub-accounts or “buckets” within one HYSA to separate your emergency savings, down payment fund, vacation fund and other goals without opening multiple accounts.

If you are using the flow-based budgeting system, you can set up 2 checking accounts, 1 non-monthly savings account, and 1 high-yield savings account. The right setup ultimately comes down to your preferences and how much structure helps you stay consistent.

Fees to Watch For

Regardless of whether you decide to use a bank or credit union, the goal is to keep your money in your pocket. Keep an eye out for these common and avoidable fees:

• Monthly Maintenance Fees: Many accounts charge a fee just for existing unless you hit a minimum balance or set up a recurring direct deposit. If you find you’re often being charged, look for accounts that have easier requirements or no monthly fees. 
• Overdraft Fees: Many banks now offer overdraft protection or have removed these fees entirely. One option to consider is turning off overdraft protection so transactions may decline if funds aren’t available (bank policies vary). Another approach is keeping a small buffer and enabling low-balance alerts.
• ATM Fees: If you use cash often, ensure your bank has a large network or offers fee reimbursements for using other banks’ machines.

Why Credit Actually Matters

It is common to think credit is only for when you want to buy a house or a car, but it impacts your life much sooner than that. A strong credit history demonstrates reliability. Landlords typically check your credit before letting you sign a lease and some employers even look at it as a sign of responsibility during the hiring process. A strong credit score may help borrowers qualify for more favorable lending terms over time. It may influence your insurance premiums and the interest rates you’ll pay on future loans. If you have private student loans, building credit early can create an opportunity to refinance at a better rate in a future to reduce your monthly payment and the total interest you pay over time. 

How to Build Credit from Scratch

If you were fortunate enough to have school paid for, you may graduate with little to no credit history. Here are a few smart ways to get started:

1. The Credit Card Strategy – This is probably the simplest and most effective starting point. Opening a secured credit card (if you are starting out) or a regular credit card. Then, use it for small, predictable purchases each month can help you build a strong payment history, which has the greatest impact on your score. The key is to treat it like a debit card and only charge what you can afford to pay off in full every month. When choosing your first card, pick one that matches your existing spending habits. If you want something simple and low maintenance, a basic cash-back card, especially through your primary bank, is often a great starter option. If you travel frequently for work or fun, a travel or airline card may offer more value through miles or perks. The most important rule is to choose a card based on what you already spend the most on. That way, the rewards work naturally with your lifestyle.
2. Becoming an Authorized User – Another way to jumpstart your credit is by becoming an authorized user on a parent’s credit card. If they have a long history of on-time payments and low balances, that positive history can reflect on your credit report while you are attached to the card. The benefit is that your score can improve even if you do not actively use the card. The risk, however, is that if the primary cardholder misses payments or carries high balances or removes you, it can negatively impact your credit as well. This approach requires trust and clear communication on both sides.
3. The Car Loan Strategy – This one may sound counterintuitive, but financing a small portion of a car purchase can help establish a payment history. Even if you have enough cash to buy the car outright, taking a modest loan and paying it off steadily over a year or two demonstrates to future lenders that you can manage a recurring monthly obligation. It can also help diversify your credit mix. Credit scores consider the types of credit you use, and having both revolving credit and installment credit) can strengthen your profile over time. That said, this strategy only makes sense if the interest rate is reasonable and the loan fits comfortably within your financial plan. The goal is to build credit strategically, not to take on debt unnecessarily. Borrowing solely to improve a credit profile may not be appropriate for everyone and should be considered carefully.
4. Building Credit with Installment Loans – If you are still in college, you can take out a small federal student loan even if you have the cash to pay for school. For undergraduate loans disbursed through late 2026, the origination fee is typically 1.057%. (Source: StudentAid.Gov, as of April 2026 – rates subject to change). If you take out the loan and then pay it off immediately, this may help establish an installment loan history on your credit report. This approach should only be considered after evaluating whether borrowing aligns with your overall financial situation.

Credit Score vs. Credit Report

Before you start opening accounts, it helps to understand what lenders are actually measuring. Your credit score is based on a few consistent factors:

• Payment history – Paying your bills on time, every time, has the strongest impact on your score. Even one missed payment can cause a noticeable drop. Some missed payments to student loans and medical loans can have a bigger impact on your score.
• Credit utilization – This refers to how much of your available credit you’re using. As a rule of thumb, many people aim to keep utilization below ~30%, and lower is often better (especially before applying for a loan). But there isn’t one perfect number; what’s appropriate depends on your overall credit profile and spending patterns.
• Length of credit history – The longer your accounts have been open, the better. This is why it is usually not a good idea to close your oldest credit card, even if you rarely use it.
• Credit mix – Having a combination of revolving credit (credit cards) and installment loans (like car/student loans) can positively impact your score.
• New credit inquiries – Each time you apply for new credit, a “hard inquiry” is recorded. A few inquiries are normal, but opening multiple accounts in a short period can temporarily lower your score.

The good news is that most of this comes down to consistent habits: pay on time, keep credit balances low, and avoid opening accounts you do not need. Over time, those simple habits compound. In general, a credit score above 750 is generally considered excellent under many common scoring models. That is a strong benchmark to work toward, as it typically qualifies you for the most favorable interest rates and lending terms available.

In comparison, your credit report does not contain a single score. Instead, it is a detailed record of your credit history, including every account you have opened, your payment history, balances, and any negative marks. You are entitled to a free credit report from each of the three major credit bureaus: Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion. The only website authorized by federal law to provide these reports for free is AnnualCreditReport.com. It is a good habit to pull your credit report at least once per year to check for errors, fraudulent activity, or accounts you do not recognize. Monitoring your report regularly helps ensure your credit is accurate and ready when you actually need to use it. 

How to Choose the Right Student Loan Repayment Plan

Student loans often begin as a doorway…an investment in possibility, growth, and a future you’re working hard to build. But over time, they can become unnecessarily complex, shifting constantly, and harder to navigate than they should be.

This blog is about understanding how this piece of your financial life fits into the whole of your life, and making decisions that feel steady, informed, and aligned with your goals. Here is how to navigate each stage with clarity.

Before Graduation Day

Your greatest asset in this season is one you might not realize you have: time. A few intentional steps now can reduce friction later and help you step into repayment with more confidence.

1. Start with bringing everything into view. Know what you owe, to whom, and under what terms. Federal and private loans are very different, and those differences matter.
2. Understand your grace period. For many Federal loans, there’s a six-month window before payments begin. Not all loans follow the same rules, so it’s worth confirming the details.
3. If you’re stepping into a new role, look beyond salary. Some employers offer student loan support or retirement matching that can meaningfully shape your strategy.

This time is about preparation and removing uncertainty.

The Grace Period

The first 6 months after graduation is known as: the Grace Period. Similar to when you first started college, these months are often full in more ways than one… new routines, new responsibilities, and a shifting sense of identity. Your loans are present (and accruing interest), but they don’t need to dictate urgency. This is a window to decide how you want to approach them.

Tip: Most servicers offer a 0.25% interest rate reduction for enrolling in automatic payments.

Private Student Loans

Private loans tend to be more rigid. It’s important to understand if the interest rate on your loans is fixed or variable. A fixed interest rate means your payment stays constant over the life of your loan. A variable interest means your payment will fluctuate as interest rates move up and down. Additionally, if you have a co-signer on your loans, it’s important to check your contract for a co-signer release clause. Knowing exactly how many on-time payments are required to remove them can protect your relationships and their credit.

Tip: If rates are high, prioritizing these loans may bring more long-term ease.

Federal Student Loans

Federal loans offer more pathways, but also more complexity. Some plans prioritize consistency with fixed payments, clear timelines, and a defined end point. Other plans prioritize flexibility with payments that adjust with your income, and the possibility of forgiveness over time.

Neither is inherently better. The right choice depends on what matters most to you right now –  predictability, flexibility, or a longer-term strategic outcome.

And if public service is part of your path, there are additional opportunities worth understanding early to work towards the 120 month forgiveness goal.

Tip: If you are pursuing loan forgiveness, payments made during your grace period do not count toward loan forgiveness.

Choosing a Repayment Path

So, how do you choose a repayment plan for your Federal student loans? Let’s first review the different repayment plan types.

Structured Repayment Plans

Structured Repayment Plans keep a constant payment for a certain period of time. There are 3 types:

• Standard: Loans default to a standard 10 year repayment period. You can increase the repayment period up to 30 years by consolidating your loans. Your monthly payment stays constant over the life of the loan. 
• Graduated: Loans default to a 10 year repayment period. You can increase the repayment period up to 30 years by consolidating your loans. Your monthly payment starts low and increases every two years over the life of the loan.  If you are starting in an entry-level role, but you expect your salary to jump significantly every few years, this plan matches your payment to your rising career trajectory.
• Extended: You must have over $30,000 in Federal student loans to qualify for this plan. The repayment term is 25 years and you can choose either a fixed payment amount or graduated. If you need to keep your monthly payments as low as possible to afford a mortgage or other life goals, this provides breathing room.

Income-Driven Repayment Plans

Income-Driven repayment plans allow you to keep payments low when income is low while also working towards loan forgiveness over time. To be eligible for the separate Public Service Loan Forgiveness (PSLF) program, you would typically enroll in an Income-Driven repayment plan. All Income-Driven repayment plans calculate your monthly payment based on your Adjusted Gross Income (AGI), NOT your student loan balance.

As of May 15, 2026, there are four different Income Driven Repayment Plans. However, this area is changing quickly, and available options may depend on loan type, borrower status, and implementation timing. 

• IBR (Income Based Repayment): Eligible loans include Direct Federal loans, Grad PLUS loans, and FFEL loans. Any unpaid interest on your loan accrues. Loan balances are forgiven after 25 years (if you borrowed before July 1, 2014) and 20 years (if you borrowed on or after July 1, 2014). Any loan balance forgiven is included as taxable income in the year of forgiveness.
• PAYE: Eligible loans include Direct Federal loans and Grad PLUS loans. To be eligible, you cannot have any outstanding loans with a loan date prior to October 1, 2007. Any unpaid interest on your loan accrues. Loan balances are forgiven after 20 years. Any loan balance forgiven is included as taxable income in the year of forgiveness.
• ICR (Income Contingent Repayment): Eligible loans include Direct Federal loans, Grad PLUS loans, and consolidated Parent PLUS loans. Any unpaid interest on your loan accrues. Loan balances are forgiven after 25 years. Any loan balance forgiven is included as taxable income that year.
• SAVE: SAVE is being phased out, and new enrollment is not available. Borrowers currently enrolled should monitor Department of Education and servicer updates before switching plans, because changing plans may affect payment amounts, interest treatment, and forgiveness strategy. 

Tip: Federal repayment options are scheduled to change beginning July 1, 2026 for new borrowers. Current borrowers may have different rules depending on their loan type and repayment plan, so confirm available options through StudentAid.gov or your servicer before making changes. 

So back to how, do I choose a repayment plan?

Flexibility: If your priority is flexibility, income-driven plans can offer breathing room when income fluctuates and possible loan forgiveness.They ask for ongoing attention since they require annual income and family updates, but in return provide flexibility.

Consistency: If your priority is consistency and simplicity, structured plans offer steady payments, fewer moving parts, and a clear payoff timeline.

Public Service Loan Forgiveness: If you are interested in Public Service Loan Forgiveness (PSLF), you must be enrolled in an Income-Driven Repayment plan and work full-time for an eligible government employer or not-for-profit organization. It’s important to note that PSLF forgiveness is a separate forgiveness path than Income-Driven forgiveness.

The real question isn’t simply what saves the most money. It’s what creates the most stability and alignment for you.

Federal Student Loans: Who Does What?

We are frequently asked between your loan servicer (Mohela, Nelnet, Aidvantage, etc.) and the Federal government (studentaid.gov), who does what? Here is a list of duties for each (although, this is subject to change with the dismantling of the Department of Education):

A common question we receive is about the different roles of your loan servicer (such as Mohela, Nelnet, or Aidvantage) versus the Federal government (via studentaid.gov). Below is a list of duties for each, though keep in mind this is changing with the shifts in the Department of Education.

As Your Life Evolves: Refining the Strategy

A year or two into your career, your relationship with money often shifts. Income grows. Priorities deepen. Life becomes more layered. This is where autopilot is no longer enough and optimization begins.

Private Student Loans

Refinancing private student loans is an ongoing option for lowering your monthly payments. As you build credit and interest rates fluctuate, shopping around for better rates could save you. Since student loan refinancing typically involves no origination fees, it is always worthwhile to compare offers, and you can continue to refinance if lower rates become available in the future.

Federal Student Loans

If you’re on an Income-Driven Plan, you must recertify your income and family size annually. Do not miss this deadline. If you do, your payments may jump back up to the higher Standard Plan amount. If you are married, it may be beneficial to speak with an accountant to determine the trade-off in filing taxes separately if it lowers your student loan payment. 

If you qualify for PSLF, submit your Employment Certification Form annually. 

If you have extra cash flow, you face a meaningful choice: accelerate repayment or direct those dollars toward investing and other goals

If you qualify, you may be able to deduct up to $2,500 in student loan interest paid on your Federal tax return. This is subject to income phase-outs and, if you are married, you must file Married Filing Jointly.

If refinancing becomes an option, it deserves careful consideration. Lower rates can be attractive, but federal protections, once given up, cannot be regained. Generally, Federal student loans offer greater consumer protection than Private student loans:

• More flexible repayment options
• Forgiveness programs
• Pauses related to deferment or forbearance
• Loan Rehabilitation
• Loan Consolidation
• Loan discharged upon death

There’s no one-size answer here. It’s a decision that lives at the intersection of math and meaning.

A Final Thought

Student loans don’t exist in a static system. Policies change, programs evolve, and what was true a decade ago may not hold today. This doesn’t mean you need to react to every headline, but it does mean your strategy should be revisited as the world shifts around you.

The landscape is currently undergoing one of its most significant transformations in decades. Following the One Big Beautiful Bill Act passed in 2025, we are moving toward a more streamlined, but very different, repayment system starting July 1, 2026.

The goal is to remain steady and responsive. This blog reflects what we know today, but because the guidance is still evolving, we will be posting an update during Summer 2026 as the final rules are implemented. Because repayment-plan availability and forgiveness eligibility, are still being updated, start by verifying your options through StudentAid.gov, your loan servicer, or a qualified advisor before changing repayment plans. The best strategy is to stay informed and proactive. Commit to revisiting your student loan strategy annually to be sure it aligns with your income and goals.

Smart Debt in Your 20s: How to Finance a Car, Buy a Home, and Pay Off Debt Wisely

When we talk about debt in your 20’s, it is easy to focus only on student loans or credit cards. However, as you move through your 20’s, you will likely encounter other types of financing. The goal for the debt you take on is to support your long-term goals rather than delaying them. When managed correctly, these purchases are tools that build your life, but when they are out of alignment with your income, they can quickly become a source of constant stress.

Car Purchases 

The biggest mistake people often make at a dealership is assuming that because they qualify for a loan, they can actually afford the car. Lenders are often willing to give you more than your budget can comfortably handle. Additionally, cars are typically a depreciating asset, which means it loses value over time. One common rule of thumb is the 20/4/10 benchmark: 20% down, a loan term of 4 years or less, and total transportation costs (payment, insurance, gas, maintenance) that stay below 10% of gross monthly income. It is not a perfect fit for every situation, but it can be a useful starting point when evaluating what feels affordable. Keeping those boundaries in mind can help reduce the chances that a car payment starts to compete with your savings goals. A larger down payment and shorter loan term can also reduce the risk of owing more than the car is worth early in the loan, a situation often referred to as being underwater on a loan. 

Home Purchases 

Buying a home is often the largest financial decision you will ever make. While traditional advice suggests saving a 20% down payment, that is not the only way to become a homeowner today. For first-time buyers, there are several programs designed to make homes more accessible. FHA loans, which are backed by the Federal Housing Administration, allow for a down payment as low as 3.5%. These can be a strong option if you have a moderate credit score or have not yet built up a large amount of savings. 

Before applying for a mortgage, it is important to understand your Debt-to-Income Ratio, or DTI. This is the percentage of your gross monthly income that goes toward debt payments. Most lenders look for a total DTI of 43% or less to qualify, though some programs allow slightly higher. For example, if your gross monthly income is $5,000 and you have a $400 student loan payment, a $350 car payment, and an estimated future mortgage of $2,000, your total monthly debt would be $2,750. $2,750 / $5,000 gives you a DTI of 55%, which would likely put you above the typical approval threshold. Lenders use this number to determine how much you qualify for, but qualifying and affording are not the same thing. Your mortgage should still allow room for saving, investing, and living the life you enjoy.

In addition to your down payment, you will need to account for closing costs. These include expenses such as inspections, appraisals, lender fees, and prepaid taxes that are due at signing. Closing costs typically range from 2-5% of the home’s purchase price and are frequently overlooked by first-time buyers. Planning for them upfront prevents surprises at the end of the process. Use SeedSafe’s Customized Calculator to estimate how much cash you need to purchase a home and estimated annual costs. 

It is also important to remember that your mortgage is made up of taxes and insurance too. While your principal and interest payment may be fixed, your property taxes and homeowners insurance are not. Most lenders collect these through an escrow account and review your monthly payment on an annual basis as taxes or insurance premiums increase. If your home budget is stretched to the limit on day one of purchasing your home, even a $200 increase in housing costs later can create strain. Leaving a buffer in your budget helps your home continue to feel affordable.

Finally, shop for your mortgage lender just as you would for any other major purchase. Credit unions often offer competitive interest rates and lower fees because they are member-owned, and they may provide more flexibility if your credit history is relatively new. Large national banks are another option and may offer a wider range of loan products and online tools. While you are shopping around, review your employee benefits package. If you work for a large company, they may offer specific deals for home purchases, such as covering a portion of your closing costs or providing a discounted interest rate through a partner lender. The goal is to compare at least 3 quotes so you can understand the range of rates and costs available to you. Even a small difference in interest rate can have a meaningful impact over time. For example, on a $300,000 30-year loan, the difference between a 6.0% rate and a 6.5% rate is about $36,000 in additional interest over the life of the loan. 

Other Types of Debt 

Beyond cars and homes, you might come across personal loans. These can be used for things like consolidating higher-interest debt or covering a major life event. The interest rate is typically higher than a car loan but lower than a credit card, but it depends on your credit. Before taking on any loan, it helps to pause and ask a simple question: Is this debt helping me build long-term financial stability, or is it funding a temporary lifestyle upgrade? Some debt, such as a mortgage or student loans tied to a high-earning career path, can support future income growth or net worth building. Other types of debt, especially those used for vacations, luxury purchases, or short-term wants, should be approached much more cautiously. Debt itself is not inherently good or bad. The key is understanding whether it moves you forward financially or simply shifts tomorrow’s income into today’s spending.

Paying Off Debt in your 20’s

If you find yourself with extra cash at the end of the month, you may start to wonder: should I pay off my debt early? The answer usually comes down to both math and personal comfort.

A helpful way to think about it is by comparing your interest rate to what your money could reasonably earn elsewhere. For example, if you are carrying a credit card balance at 20% interest, paying that off is essentially the best return on your money (20% interest expense – gone!). It is very difficult to find an investment that consistently delivers that kind of return, which is why high-interest debt is almost always the top priority. If your debt carries a lower interest rate, such as a 4% car loan or student loan, the decision becomes less clear-cut. Some people compare the interest rate on a lower-rate loan with historical long-term market returns when deciding whether to pay debt down faster or invest additional cash. But investment results vary, and past performance is not indicative of future results.

That said, as we have mentioned previously, money is not just about numbers. Your peace of mind matters too. Some people are comfortable carrying low-interest debt while investing aggressively. Others feel a real sense of relief when they eliminate debt entirely. If being debt-free helps you sleep better at night, that is a valid reason to accelerate payments, even if the math doesn’t say so.

You also do not have to choose one extreme. Many people split their extra cash, directing part toward paying down debt and part toward investing. This balanced approach allows you to make progress on both fronts while maintaining flexibility.

Closing Thoughts

Debt in your 20s is simply a way to use your future income to pay for something today. When used intentionally for a home or a reliable car, it can be a powerful tool to help build the life you desire. However, the goal is for your debt payments to leave plenty of room for your other values, whether it’s travel, savings, or just enjoying your day-to-day life.

Investing & The Power of Doing Nothing

If you have ever felt intimidated by the stock market, you are not alone. It is often portrayed as a fast-paced world of flashing screens, daily tracking, and complex spreadsheets. For many long-term investors, a disciplined investing approach can feel surprisingly boring. It is less about picking the next big stock and more about setting up a simple system and then leaving it alone for a few decades.

The Eighth Wonder: Compounding Interest

You may have heard compounding interest described as the eighth wonder of the world. It is a simple concept with massive results: you earn interest on your original investment, and then you earn interest on that interest. Over time, this creates an exponential growth curve where your money starts doing the heavy lifting for you.

For a recent grad, time is your greatest asset. A dollar invested in your 20s has more time to compound than a dollar invested in your 30s or 40s, which can make starting early especially powerful over the long term. It is also important to remember that compounding works both ways. Just as it can make your savings explode, it can also cause high-interest debt to balloon if it is left unchecked. When managing your finances well, the magic of compounding is working for you instead of against you.

Passive Investing 101

Passive investing strategies have historically demonstrated competitive long-term performance for many investors. This involves using low-cost index funds or ETFs (Exchange-Traded Funds) that track broad markets. These investments are typically held inside accounts such as a 401(k), IRA, or brokerage account, which we will cover in a future post. An index fund is essentially a basket of hundreds or even thousands of different companies. Instead of trying to guess which single company will do well, you are simply buying a small piece of the entire market. ETFs are very similar but can be traded like individual stocks throughout the day. By using these simple tools, you avoid the high fees and the stress of trying to outsmart the market.

Let’s break it down even more to put it into perspective. Rather than manually buying 5 shares of Apple, 3 shares of Amazon, and 7 shares of Google, you could simply buy one share of a Tech Index Fund. That single purchase gives you a slice of all those companies, plus hundreds of other tech stocks, instantly.

Funds can be organized in various ways such as:

• Company Size (Market Cap): You can buy a “Large Cap” fund (the 500 biggest companies in the US) or a “Small Cap” fund (smaller, up-and-coming companies).
• Market Sectors: Like the example above, you can focus on specific industries like Technology, Healthcare, or Green Energy.
• Geography: You can buy a “Total International” fund to own pieces of companies in Europe, Asia, and other markets outside of the US or a “World” fund to own pieces of companies throughout the entire world, including the US.
• Total Market: You can buy 1 fund that contains a piece of nearly every public company in the entire US.
• Environmental, Social, & Governance (ESG): You can buy a fund that excludes companies involved in things like global warming, tobacco, weapons, or child labor. 

Many investors keep things simple by choosing just a few broad funds that cover the U.S. market, international markets, and bonds. If you are interested in more research and details, you can simply search the fund name. Be sure to look at expense ratios and use these general industry benchmarks as a guide: ultra-low cost is considered  0.01%-0.10%, average is considered 0.11%-0.30%, and high cost is considered 0.50%+. 

Simplicity over Complexity

A widely cited investing anecdote, discussed by Morningstar, suggests that some of the best-performing Fidelity accounts may have belonged to investors who were either deceased or inactive. Whether or not the original Fidelity study was ever publicly verified, the broader lesson is supported by research: investors who trade less often may be less likely to hurt their long-term results through fees, timing mistakes, or emotional decisions. Every time you buy or sell, you risk making a move based on emotion or timing the market incorrectly. You allow your index funds to do what they are designed to do: participate in long-term market growth over time without unnecessary interference. 

In our professional lives, we are taught that hard work and constant adjustments lead to better results. In the world of investing, the opposite is often true. The goal is to be a passive observer of your wealth rather than an active manager of it. By choosing broad, low-cost funds and keeping your system simple, you may reduce fees and make it easier to stay disciplined over time. 

Remember that the market will not be sunshine and rainbows all the time. Markets rise and fall, and successful investors stay disciplined by focusing on long-term goals and historical trends instead of reacting emotionally in the moment.

When to Move Beyond DIY

Once you understand that index funds allow you to own the whole market, the next logical question is: “If it’s this simple, do I actually need to hire an investment manager?”

The truth is, while the basics are simple, life rarely stays that way. We believe it may be time for a professional if:

• You lack the time: You simply don’t have the hours to devote to making sure you are invested correctly and that your portfolio is being rebalanced.
• Your goals are complex: You have bigger questions that require discussing exactly what risk level you want, can, and need to take to succeed.
• You need a buffer: You know yourself well enough to know you might make emotional mistakes during a market dip. An investment professional acts as the barrier that keeps you from making moves that interfere with your compounding.

We discuss this question more in our Can I VTSAX and Chill? blog

Closing Thoughts

Investing is one of the few areas where a less active approach may work in your favor. Once you have selected low-cost ETFs or index funds that track the total market, a consistent contribution strategy and patience can go a long way. 

What’s Next? Set a goal to research one fund that tracks a broad market index. What are the top 10 companies held in the fund? What is the expense ratio? How has it performed this year, last year, and over the last 5 years?

How to Actually Start Investing

In our last post, we covered the magic of compounding. In our hypothetical example, $500/month invested for several decades at a 7% annual return could grow significantly. Real life will vary, and no return is guaranteed. But you can’t just mail a check to “The Stock Market.” So let’s talk about the strategy to get started. 

Build the Habit First

If you’re thinking you can’t invest $500 per month, the more important goal is simply building the habit. Even starting with $50 each month can begin this rhythm. Investing is often compared to building a muscle, and right now, the focus is simply on developing consistency. Starting with any amount and remaining consistent reinforces the idea that Future You gets paid first. When you start to earn more or feel more comfortable, you can gradually increase that contribution over time.

Dollar Cost Averaging: Automating Your Investments

Many people struggle with investing because they try to time the market, such as waiting for a crash to buy stocks. Instead, one common approach is Dollar Cost Averaging (DCA). DCA involves investing a fixed amount of money on a regular schedule (weekly, biweekly, monthly, etc.), regardless of whether the market is up or down. This means that when the market is higher, your $50 buys fewer shares. When the market is lower, the same $50 buys more shares. 

The 3 Buckets: What accounts are used for what?

Now that you have a consistent investing habit, you need to understand the types of accounts available. Think of these as different buckets with different rules. Each account has its own tax treatment and contribution limits, which is why many people use a combination of them over time. For retirement specific accounts, you will notice they have unique tax advantages. One of the reasons is because the US government wants to stay out of the business of taking care of us when we’re 80. In the past, many workers relied on pensions (where your company paid you a check for life after you retired). As pensions became less common, the US government introduced the 401(k) and the IRA to encourage Americans to save for their own retirement. The incentive is simple, the government agreed to skip taking their cut (taxes) either now or later. 

Now that we understand the background, let’s discuss the most common account types and their features.

1. 401(k): This is a retirement plan offered specifically by your employer. The money comes straight out of your paycheck before it reaches your bank account. Your company picks a limited “menu” of investment options for employees, so you may only have 15-20 funds to choose from.

In many plans, you can choose between Pre-Tax (Traditional) where you receive a tax deduction today, or Post-Tax (Roth) where you pay taxes now and withdraw the funds tax-free later. In both cases, investment growth is tax deferred! This means every year as the account earns money, you won’t have to pay taxes on those earnings. These accounts do have an annual contribution limit and withdrawals before age 59.5 may cause taxes and penalties unless certain exceptions apply.

As mentioned in our Company Benefits 101 Blog, if your employer matches your contributions, now is the time to contribute at least up to the match percentage. If you don’t contribute enough to get the full match, you’re essentially leaving part of your compensation package on the table. 

2. Individual Retirement Accounts (IRA): Unlike a 401(k), this has nothing to do with your company. You open this yourself at a brokerage (like Vanguard, Schwab, or Fidelity) and you deposit the money directly into the account. You continue to use this same account even if you change jobs. Compared to the 401(k), the “menu” here is much larger. You can choose from a wide range of stocks, bonds, or funds. This flexibility gives you more control, but also requires more responsibility when choosing investments. 

Similar to the 401(k), you can choose between a Traditional IRA (Pre-Tax) or a Roth IRA (Post-Tax). You may have heard about a Roth IRA through social media because it can be an attractive option for young, early career professionals. However, as your income grows, you might make too much to contribute directly to a Roth IRA (in 2026, $168,000 for single filers and $252,000 for married couples). That’s when you can consider the Backdoor Roth IRA, which lets high-earners convert Traditional IRA funds into a Roth IRA. This process can have tax implications and may require additional planning. IRAs also have an annual contribution limit separate from 401(k) contribution limits. 

3. Taxable Brokerage Account: This is a standard investment account that you can also open up at a brokerage, but it doesn’t have special retirement tax benefits. Instead, it provides maximum flexibility. You can contribute as much as you would like and withdraw money at any time. Because earnings in this account may be taxed, it is often used for goals outside of traditional retirement timelines. For example, someone who plans to retire before age 59.5 may rely on a taxable account to access funds without early-withdrawal penalties. Unlike retirement accounts, taxable brokerage accounts may generate taxable income from dividends, interest, or investment sales.

Making a Decision: Pre-Tax vs. Post-Tax 

With pre-tax accounts, you receive a tax break on your income today, but you pay taxes when the money is withdrawn in retirement. This is often used by people in their peak earning years who may want to lower their current tax bill. 

With post-tax (Roth) accounts, instead of a tax break today, you pay taxes on your contribution now, but qualified withdrawals in retirement are tax-free. This is often used by early-career professionals because you are likely in the lowest tax bracket of your career right now. By paying the “small” tax bill today, you are hopefully shielding yourself from paying a much larger tax bill on the growth in the future. One way to think about it is like paying taxes on the seeds so you don’t have to pay taxes on the harvest. That said, some investors in higher tax brackets still choose the Post-Tax (Roth) 401(k) contributions because they believe future tax rates in the U.S. could be significantly higher by the time they retire.

Still unsure which one to pick? You can choose to do both. Many people split their contributions to cover all their bases. Ultimately, the “right” choice is personal to your specific situation and your outlook on the future. 

Mistakes to Avoid

• Stock Picking: Trying to pick the next big winner can be speculative and difficult to do consistently. Many investors instead choose broad market funds (often called index funds) that track the overall market.
• Market Timing: “I’ll wait until things settle down.” Things may not feel settled. Many investors focus on staying invested consistently rather than trying to predict short-term movements.
• “I’ll Start Next Year” Loop: Delaying the start of investing every year could cost you thousands of dollars in compounding.

What’s next? Take a few minutes to login to your workplace benefits portal. Do you have a 401(k)? Does your employer offer a match? Are you contributing pre-tax or post-tax? Make a decision to be informed today rather than waiting.

Which Platform Should You Use To Invest?

You’ve got your strategy and you’ve picked your account types. Now it’s time to pick the actual app or website that will hold your money. We’ve grouped the most common into 3 general paths to choose from. Just a note, you cannot choose this for your employer’s 401(k). Your employer selects the provider, so this decision applies to accounts like an Individual Retirement Account (IRA) or a taxable investment account.

If you haven’t yet read the beginning of this investing chapter, you may want to start there.

DIY Traditional Brokerages

Traditional brokerages like Vanguard and Charles Schwab are often considered the long-standing providers for long-term investors. These platforms are built for people who want total control over their investments and a focus on low costs. When you use a DIY brokerage, you are responsible for selecting and placing your own investments. For example, you would search for a specific fund ticker like VTI or VXUS, and place the trade yourself.

Many traditional brokerages offer access to low-cost investment options, though costs vary by provider, fund, and account type. You also have access to a wide range of investment options. However, the trade-off is that the interfaces can sometimes feel a bit technical or data-heavy compared to newer apps. You are also responsible for maintenance tasks such as logging in periodically to rebalance your portfolio and review if your mix of investments hasn’t drifted too far from your original plan. These platforms may be ideal for investors who value control even if there is a steeper learning curve.

Please note: Platform examples are provided for educational purposes only and are not endorsements or recommendations by SeedSafe Financial, LLC. Features, fees, and incentives vary by provider and may change over time.

Robo-Advisors

Robo-advisors such as Betterment, Wealthfront, or Fidelity Go may be worth exploring for investors who value automation. These platforms use algorithms to manage your money for you. After you answer a few questions about your financial goals and how much risk you are comfortable taking, the computer builds a diversified portfolio based on your answers.

Once the account is set up, your only job is to set up contributions. The platform handles the rest by automatically buying the funds and rebalancing them as needed. Robo-advisors may charge a management fee, often around 0.25% annually, though fees vary by provider and may change over time. For context, a 0.25% annual fee would equal about $25 per year for every $10,000 invested, before considering any underlying fund expenses or other costs. Always review the provider’s current fee schedule before opening an account. Robo-advisors may be a good fit for someone who values simplicity and automation without a complex personal situation. 

Modern Investing Apps

Apps like Robinhood and SoFi have made investing more accessible by focusing on mobile-first design and ease of use. These platforms are built to be intuitive and allow users to get started quickly, often within minutes. They were among the first to offer a fractional shares feature. An example of a fractional share is if a single share of a major company costs $400, you can still invest as little as $5 to own a tiny piece of it. 

While the bigger brokerages have since caught up and now offer fractional share features, these apps still lead the way in terms of mobile-first design and a seamless user experience. Some of these platforms even offer unique incentives, such as matching a percentage of your IRA contributions. The downside, however, is that the gamified interfaces can make it tempting to trade too often or try to pick individual stocks instead of sticking to a diversified index fund strategy. These platforms may appeal to beginners who want to start with very small amounts of money and prefer to handle their financial life from their phone.

Which one should you choose?

There is no perfect platform, only the one that you will use consistently. Different platforms serve different preferences and priorities. If your focus is minimizing costs and maintaining control, a traditional brokerage may feel like a good fit. If you value automation and simplicity, a robo-advisor may be appealing. If ease of use and accessibility are most important, a mobile-first app may be a starting point.

The most important thing is not finding a perfect platform, but choosing a reasonable option that helps you begin investing when it makes sense for your situation. Spending too much time comparing platforms can delay getting started. As we have mentioned previously, the cost of waiting can reduce the amount of time your money has to compound. The good news is that platforms are not permanent decisions. If your preferences change, accounts can often be transferred and closed.

Taking It a Step Further

If you find yourself overwhelmed by where to start or concerned about making a mistake, you are not alone. Many people choose to work with a professional even if they are fully capable of investing on their own because life gets busy, and it’s easy to check out once the initial excitement of starting wears off. People hire financial advisors for the same reason they hire personal trainers: not because they don’t know how to work out, but because they want a coach to keep them disciplined and accountable. An advisor can provide the accountability you need to be consistent, avoid impulsive decisions during market swings, and integrate investing into a broader financial plan.

What’s next? Take a moment to think about your future self. What kind of financial life do you want to be living 10 or 20 years from now? How might the decisions you make today help support that version of you?

Want to learn more? Here are a few other blogs and videos from SeedSafe:

• https://www.seedsafefinancial.com/why-investment-manager/
• Retirement Savings 101: Smart Strategies for Every Stage of Life

We believe good financial planning is good life planning, so if you’d like guidance that aligns your investment decisions with what matters most to you, we invite you to schedule time to chat with us!

Is Buying a Home in Your 20s Actually a Good Idea?

In your 20s, you will likely face a lot of unsolicited advice telling you that “renting is throwing money away” and that you should buy a home as soon as possible to build equity. The reality is much more nuanced than simply running the numbers. For most people in this decade, the decision comes down to 3 things: flexibility, financial readiness, and how long you plan to stay in one place.

Why Renting Isn’t “Throwing Money Away”

The idea that rent is a waste of money is one of the most common myths in personal finance. When you rent, you are paying for a roof over your head, the ability to call a landlord when the sink leaks, and, most importantly, the freedom to leave. When you rent, your monthly check covers the property taxes, property insurance, and maintenance. When you own, those costs are your responsibility, and they can be unpredictable. Renting provides you with a fixed cost that allows you to funnel your extra cash into your investments while you are still figuring out what you want your life to look like. 

A Reality Check: Rent Payments vs. Mortgage Payments 

Many people compare a $2,000 rent payment to a $2,000 mortgage payment and assume they are equal. Rent is often the most you’ll pay in a month, while a mortgage can be the starting point once taxes, insurance, maintenance, and repairs are added. A mortgage payment (often referred to as PITI) is made up of four distinct parts that you should understand before committing to a home purchase. That $2,000 mortgage might actually look like $1,400 principal and interest + $400 taxes + $200 insurance.

The first two components are Principal and Interest. Principal is the portion that actually goes toward owning the home, while Interest is the cost of borrowing money. In the early years of a mortgage, the vast majority of your payment goes toward interest, not equity. The other two components are Taxes and Insurance. Property taxes and homeowners insurance can add hundreds of dollars to your monthly mortgage payment, and unlike your fixed interest rate, these costs tend to increase periodically. Then, there are the less predictable costs of homeownership, like a $10,000 roof repair or a broken HVAC system. This is where a cheaper mortgage can quickly become much more expensive than renting. So, let’s walk through a few things to consider when deciding which option is the best fit for your current situation. 

Mobility

For many people in their 20s, career mobility can be a significant factor in their long-term financial growth. The ability to relocate for a higher-paying role or a unique professional opportunity is a strategic advantage that homeownership can sometimes limit. Selling a home is often a slow and expensive process. If you buy a home and need to move only a few years later, there is a possibility that the costs of the transaction will outweigh any equity you have built. While some people prioritize the stability of a permanent home early on, others find that the flexibility to move is more aligned with their current goals.

Generally, many experts suggest that you shouldn’t consider buying unless you are reasonably confident you will remain in that house for at least 5 – 7 years. This time period is considered an estimated break-even point for how long it takes for a home’s potential appreciation to offset the high costs of both buying and selling. The actual break-even point depends on home price, transaction costs, market conditions, mortgage terms, and appreciation. Ultimately, the right choice depends on your specific financial plan and your individual needs.

Rental Properties

Some may ask, “Can’t I just buy the home and rent it out when I’m ready to move?” For several individuals, the decision to buy a home in their 20s is driven by the potential to eventually convert the property into a rental. If you are considering this path, it is important to evaluate the property as an investment rather than just a place to live. This means evaluating whether the potential monthly rent for the area will reasonably cover the mortgage, property taxes, insurance, and a buffer for vacancies for the months when the property is empty. You also need to consider the ongoing responsibilities of being a landlord, including managing repairs, finding tenants, and handling lease agreements. If you relocate for work, you may need to hire a professional management company, which typically takes about 8% – 10% of your monthly rent as a fee.

Could the cash tied up in the home potentially be used more effectively elsewhere, such as in a diversified investment portfolio?  Would you receive a tax benefit from the personal home sale exclusion if the home was sold instead?

Owning a rental property can align well with long-term goals and your preferences. For others, the added responsibility and variability may not be worth it. In those cases, continuing to rent while investing in diversified assets can be a simpler and more flexible approach.

How to Make the Decision

If you are feeling the itch to buy, start by evaluating your Life Stage rather than just the market. Ask yourself if you have a stable emergency fund that can handle a surprise $5,000 repair, and whether your career is in a place where you want to be locked into a single zip code. 

Furthermore, it is important to remember the emotional significance of this decision. For many people, a home is more than an asset, it is a place to lay your head, a space to express your personality, and a foundation for building memories with friends and family. While the financial matters, it is completely valid to prioritize the personal fulfillment and stability that homeownership can provide.

If you are currently unsure, there is value in staying the course with renting while you build your savings and investments. That time can give you more clarity on what you actually want, both financially and personally.

To help simplify the decision, here are a few things to think through:

1. Calculate the total cost of homeownership, including taxes, insurance, and maintenance fund (a common rule of thumb is 1% of your home value for maintenance)
2. Check your timeline. If you can’t see yourself in that location for 5 years, renting may provide greater flexibility for your current stage of life. Consider your current priorities. Your 20s is often a time for exploration and learning what it is exactly that you want from life. 

The goal is not to rush into ownership or avoid it entirely; instead, it is to make a decision that fits your life today. The right time to buy a home is not when you feel pressure to, but when your life and your finances are ready to support it. Your 20s are often a time of growth, change, and opportunity. The best decision is the one that gives you the flexibility and financial stability to take advantage of those opportunities as they come.

Wondering what to dive into next on our blog? Here are 5 ways to prepare for buying a home

Your Financial Safety Guide: Protecting Your Identity, Credit, and Cash 

Imagine waking up one morning, reaching for your phone, and seeing a string of notifications that make your heart sink. Your bank login was reset at 3:03 AM and your accounts are suddenly being accessed by someone thousands of miles away. It is a nightmare that can happen in seconds, yet take months, or even years, to fully resolve.

Your identity is one of your most valuable assets. It includes your Social Security number, login credentials, and personal data. On the other hand, your credit is your financial reputation, which can be impacted severely once your identity is compromised. Protecting both comes down to practicing good digital habits so you can focus on your career without the stress of a compromised account.

Sophistication of Modern Scams

Modern scams are a far cry from the obvious, misspelled emails of the past. Today, they are multi-layered psychological operations. Scammers can spoof official phone numbers, mimic the tone of a bank representative, and use personal information to sound legitimate. As highlighted by a recent report from the BBC, even high-earning professionals can be targeted by scammers who use weeks of grooming and intense pressure to build a false sense of trust. These attacks are specifically designed to bypass your logical brain by triggering a state of panic.

One common example is the safe account scam. This is when someone pretending to be from your bank or a government agency claims your funds are at risk and tells you to move it to a “safe” account for protection. They can guide you through a series of high-pressure steps, often keeping you on the phone for hours to prevent you from speaking with anyone else or verifying the story. To bypass the bank’s internal security and fraud prevention, they might even provide a specific script to use with bank tellers if you go to a branch in person. By the time you realize the account was not actually safe, the money is often gone. 

To defend against these multi-layered attacks, you should adopt a policy of pausing before acting. Scammers often rely on urgency, confusion, and trust. Your best defense is to slow down and verify independently. You should be skeptical of anyone who pressures you to move money to a new account, asks you to keep a transaction secret, or demands that you stay on the phone for hours. If you feel even a hint of urgency or fear during a call, hang up. Wait 10 minutes for the adrenaline to subside, then manually find the official customer service number and call your bank from a different phone if possible. Breaking the scammer’s momentum helps you stay in control and protect your financial plan and your peace of mind. 

While you cannot prepare for every possible scam, you can build habits that make you harder to target. Here are a few simple pieces of advice to help protect yourself. 

Freezing Your Credit

If you are not actively applying for new credit, one of the most effective steps you can consider is freezing your credit report. A credit freeze prevents lenders from accessing your file, which makes it much harder for someone to open a new account, such as a credit card, in your name.

Freezing and unfreezing your credit is free and can be done directly through each of the three major bureaus: Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion. You can temporarily lift the freeze anytime you need to apply for a loan, a new credit card, or other situation that requires a credit check. This is one of the simplest ways to add an extra layer of security to your financial life and it does not affect your credit score.

Strengthening Your Digital Locks

Protecting the accounts that hold your money and data starts with how you manage your passwords. A common mistake is using the same password for multiple sites. If one minor website has a data breach, hackers will immediately try those same credentials on every financial site they can find. To stay secure, use unique, strong passwords for every account. If this is too difficult, at a minimum, limit the reuse of the passwords used for financial accounts. 

In addition to strong passwords, it’s important to enable Multi-Factor Authentication (MFA) or Two-Factor Authentication (2FA) on any sensitive accounts, especially for your banking, primary email, and investment accounts.  By requiring a second form of verification, such as a code sent to your phone, this adds an extra layer of protection. Even if someone gains access to your password, they would still be unable to log in.

Credit Cards or Debit Cards?

When it comes to protecting your identity and your bank balance, using a credit card for everyday purchases can offer an added layer of security compared to a debit card. The primary reason for this is the difference in where the money comes from. 

When you use a debit card, the funds are pulled directly from your checking account. If your card information is compromised, they are stealing your actual cash. Unauthorized transactions can impact your actual cash balance. While these charges can typically be disputed, it may take time for the bank to investigate and restore the funds.

With a credit card, you are using the bank’s line of credit rather than your own cash. If fraudulent activity occurs, you can report the transaction and avoid paying for charges that were not authorized. Consumer protections may limit your liability for unauthorized credit card transactions, but the rules and timing can vary. Review your issuer’s policy and report suspicious activity promptly. Using a credit card for regular spending, while paying the balance in full each month, can help you avoid interest while adding a layer of protection between your daily transactions and your bank account.

That said, this approach works best for individuals who are comfortable managing credit responsibly. For those who tend to carry balances or overspend, a debit-based system may be more appropriate. The goal is to choose the method that best supports both your financial security and your spending habits.

Monitoring

Just as you check your bank balance, it is helpful to monitor your credit report regularly. You are entitled to a free credit report from each of the 3 major bureaus every year. Reviewing these reports can help you catch errors or suspicious activity early before they become major headaches. Many banking and financial apps now offer free credit monitoring tools that notify you when a new inquiry or account appears on your report. Staying aware of your credit activity is a simple habit that keeps your financial life on track.

Additionally, you can monitor your bank and credit card transactions in real time. One effective way to do this is by setting up transaction alerts. Most financial institutions allow you to receive a text or push notification whenever a transaction occurs. A pro move is to set an alert threshold to $0.01. Having this visibility allows you to quickly identify and report unauthorized activity.

Practicing Awareness in Public and Private Spaces

Being cautious with your personal information is a vital part of protecting your financial life. Be intentional about where and how you share sensitive data like your Social Security number, and only provide it when it is absolutely necessary such as official tax, employment, or banking purposes.

It is also important to be careful when using public Wi-Fi in places like coffee shops or airports, as these networks are often unencrypted and can be monitored by others. Using a virtual private network (VPN) can add an extra layer of security by encrypting your internet connection when you’re on these networks. 

Finally, stay alert for phishing emails or texts that create a false sense of urgency. If you receive a message claiming your account is locked or compromised and asking you to click a link, pause before taking action. Instead of clicking the link, go directly to the official website or app to verify the message. It is also wise to look closely at the sender’s email address. Scammers often use addresses that look similar to legitimate companies but include small misspellings or extra characters. 

These same principles apply to phone calls. If a caller asks for personal information, account details, or verification codes, it’s best to hang up and contact the company directly using the official number on their website. Be especially cautious of calls or messages that threaten legal action, such as arrest, jail time, or urgent fines. Legitimate organizations typically do not handle matters this way, so it’s important to pause and verify before responding.

Over time, developing a habit of slowing down and approaching unexpected requests with healthy skepticism can go a long way.

Your Identity Protection Checklist

• Consider freezing your credit at Experian, Equifax, and TransUnion (the 3 major bureaus)
• Update your passwords to stronger (12+ characters, upper and lower case letters, numbers, symbols, and avoid personal information like your name or birthday) 
• Turn on multi-factor authentication for your email and financial accounts
• Set a calendar reminder to check your credit report once or twice a year
• Use a credit card for purchases if you are comfortable managing it responsibly
• Avoid logging into financial accounts on public Wi-Fi networks when possible
• Set up transaction alerts on bank and credit card accounts
• Use a passcode, fingerprint, or face ID for ALL devices (especially if passwords are saved on the device) 

Remember that your digital security is a part of your overall financial health. Taking these small steps today can help keep your hard-earned money exactly where it belongs, with you.